A Gucci By Any Other Name……

Would a pair of shoes modeled and styled off a pair of Gucci shoes, but at 2% of the price still feel as great?

If you are anything like me, you will spend a lot of time (maybe a little too much time) on Pinterest.  I have been inspired by a gorgeous pair of shoes that I saw on Pinterest the other week, by Gucci.  Now I am not normally that much of a shoe person (I have a size 11 foot, so I am happy when I don’t have to wear the boxes instead of the shoes), but these shoes just spoke to me.  I looked up the shoes on a couple of different sites, and found out that the shoes are available for purchase for only $875.

By pure chance, on the same week I was at my local big box retailer (K-mart), and I saw this gorgeous pair of slides that looked remarkably similar in original style to the Gucci ones.  Wonder of Wonders – they also fit on my feet!  So I just had to purchase two pair to make the most of this magical occurrence.  I however paid the princely sum of $15 per pair for my mules.

This is my 3rd or 4th item that I have been embellishing with the use of the By Any Other Name Designs.

The next thing I had to think about was exactly what design, and how I am going to embroider these.  I didn’t want to pull the shoes apart and then embroider the leather, I might as well just go to a cobbler and have a pair made for me.  I also didn’t want to embroider right onto the shoe, as on such a delicate part of the foot, the embroidery could easily rub.  When I looked into the Gucci shoes a little more, I could easily tell that these shoes had appliques attached to the shoe after manufacture.


Create a template for your design using the software that comes with your machine, so that you can ensure the design will fit well on the shoe before you stitch.

So with imitation being the sincerest form of flattery – I have embroidered my chosen design (again the rose from the by any other name collection that I am so in love with at the present time) onto fine netting or tulle that matches the colour of the shoe.


Hoop together tulle netting and WetAway Stabiliser to create a  firm hooping.

When you are embroidering with fine netting or tulle, you need to remember to use a wash away stabiliser (I love WetAway, because it comes away so easily, and rinses clean) underneath the tulle.  I also like to use two layers of the netting or tulle, just to give the design a little more stability.

One of the most important things to remember with embroidery on shoes is that as you stitch the design, you need to mirror the design for the second shoe, or else you will have weird looking shoes.  To do this, on most machines these days (and for the past 15 years), you can simply flip the design in the hoop, and stitch out the second copy.


Design (by any other name roses) stitched onto tulle and WetAway stabiliser.

Once the design is embroidered, trim closely around the design, and remove all of the excess wash away stabiliser, my gently immersing the design in warm water.  You want the stabiliser to be gone, however you want to keep as much of the “starchiness” of the stabiliser in the design, to assist in forming it around the shoe.


Embroidered design trimmed to approximately 2mm around each edge, awaiting the stabiliser to be removed

Whilst the design is still wet, place it on the shoe, and “mold” it around the shape of the shoe, as you are planning on attaching it.  Leaving it to dry on the shoe will ensure that the design is in the correct shape as you adhere it.


Once the stabiliser has been removed, and whilst the design is wet, place on the shoe, and mold it to the correct position.

Once the design is completely dry, remove it from the shoe, and using a strong clear drying glue, glue the design onto the shoe surface.


ensure that the glue you use is clear drying.  I love a hot glue gun for this project.

Allow the glue to dry, and you have your own pair of designer shoes, for a fraction of the price.


I have been so happy with my first pair of shoes, that I have customised a second pair – and I am receiving so many compliments on the shoes, they are a wonderful conversation starter.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, and that it will inspire you to create your own one off designer creations.

Until next time, have a Stitchin’ Day.  Julie.



Friday Flashback – Bearing Love – Includes New Freebie Design

Welcome back to another Friday Flashback, taking a look back at some of my favourite classic collections.


This week I am bringing you the Bearing Love collection.

I am loving looking back at different designs, and being able to see as I learnt new techniques in digitising. I am also finding that as I am taking an in-depth look back, I am re-visiting some of these techniques for new collections.  For the Bearing Love collection, it was all about the furry jagged outline, giving the impression of real fur.  I also love the delicacy of the stitching on the hearts and wings of the bears.  It really does give an impression of sweetness, whilst still adding colour.


As always, this collection started off with falling in love with a set of artwork, and these chubby bears were just the thing.

I wanted to create a collection that was perfect for a baby’s bedroom, and that was quick to stitch out. I am still so happy with this result.


There are 18 different designs in the Bearing Love collection (22 designs, however a few merge together to create 1 actual design). I found once I began, I could not stop.  And the exact same thing happened once I began creating projects for this collection.


I started with the quilt. Initially I had simply planned to make a wall-hanging quilt for a child’s room, however as the quilt took shape, I felt that I just had to continue.  I then added an upper and lower panel, which would have made it a lap rug size, and then finally added the last two panels making it single bed size.


The quilt came together for me in a single weekend. I can remember sitting at the sewing machine on a Sunday afternoon, and asking the wonderful Edward to put dinner on so that I could do some of the quilting to finish the quilt off.

Once the quilt was complete, I was on a roll, and found myself creating a pillowcase (the kids still use this one), a library bag, wallhanging, tissue box, towel, photo album, table runner and pyjama bag. So many of these samples are still in my sample boxes, and I really love looking at them throughout the years.


At the time of creating this collection, I hadn’t heard of a product called Iridescent Embroidery Film, or Mylar. However this is one of those collections that easily lends itself to the medium.  The Iridescent Embroidery Film would so easily work under the wings and hearts, adding to the overall look of the designs.

Initially we gave away a double heart design (available HERE) as a freebie with the Bearing Love designs.  As a thank you to all of our loyal customers, for the next week we are also offering a second Bearing Love design, one of these amazing teddies, as a free download.  Simply click HERE to collect your copy.

Thank you for taking this trip down memory lane with me, I hope you have enjoyed looking at this collection, and that it has inspired you to stitch for a loved one.

Until next time, have a Stitchin’ Day. Julie.

A Quick Mothers Day Gift Idea – Embroidered Mouse Mat

Mothers Day is fast approaching, and if you are looking for a fantastic gift to stitch for a lucky lady in your life, then this mouse mat might be a perfect gift.

These days, everybody has a computer, or a tablet, and many of us use a mouse with our device as well.

A Mouse Mat is a product that sits on your desk, and allows your mouse to move over the surface of the mat easily, and without loosing traction.

Mouse mats are made of lesser density rubber composites (open cell styrene, butadiene rubber or open cell SBR) with fabric bonded to the upper surface.

I picked my mouse mat up at the local $2.00 store on the weekend, and I liked it because it has a rubber backing, and is actually quite thin. It is also a great size, at approximately 28x22cm.

Mouse mats have their own distinct properties, and there are a few things that we need to take into consideration as we embroider them.

Firstly, you don’t want to embroider over where the mouse will be moving. As you can see from my example, I have placed the embroidery at the bottom of the mouse mat, where my wrist will likely sit.  This will allow for the mouse to move freely around the mouse mat.  As a hint, keep any embroidery to the borders of the mat.

Slow it down. Because of the density and loft of the mouse mat, you will need to stitch on the lowest speed setting possible to enable the needle to freely move through the fabric.

Don’t try to hoop. The fabric of the mouse mat is not conducive to hooping, and if you were able to hoop, you would end up with a “hoop burn”, or hooping mark that would be very difficult to remove.  Instead, use either a sticky backed stabiliser, or double sided tape to secure the mouse mat in the hoop.

Keep It Simple Stitches. Don’t try and do an applique design for this particular project (as the area really isn’t large enough, and securing and trimming the fabric whilst not hooped can cause problems).  Instead, look for small simple designs to go around the edge of the mouse mat.

I have used designs from the Sew I Said collection, which is a collection of 40 different sewing tools and quotes. I love the way in this particular design that the thread unravels across the bottom of the mouse mat.  This particular design is a two colour design, and only tool about 15 minutes to stitch out.

As I finished this design, I was testing the mouse mat under my own mouse, and it is working so well that I am thinking I might need to go and get a few more mouse mats, as it looks really good on my desk, and makes the mouse move brilliantly.


Excuse the mess, but you can see how nice the mouse looks on the desktop.


I hope you have enjoyed this quick project idea, and will have a go at stitching on a rubberised product yourself.

Until next time, have a Stitchin’ Day. Julie.

These Boots were made for walking….

machine embroidered boots
I am having a great time over the past few weeks, playing with some new embroidery designs.

I have been going through a period of using up artwork that I have collected over the past few years, and the new collection – Everything is Rosy is no exception. I purchased the artwork for these fantastic rose designs approximately 7 years ago, and have been looking at them on and off over the past 7 years, trying to decide what to do with them.

During that time, I have attempted to use the designs in Applique, and open thread work, but nothing seemed to work.

Until this week. This week inspiration struck, and I have been stitching roses ever since.  I have created these roses with a little texture, the leaves are a basic embroidery stitch, whilst the roses themselves are satin, giving depth to the designs.

I love working with floral designs, because you can play with the colours so much. Each of these rose designs are two toned, giving a shaded look to the flowers.

So far I have used these designs in a few different ways, creating an embroidered back for a denim jacket, and embroidering down the side of a pair of trousers, however when I was out at the opportunity shop last week, inspiration struck!

We are moving into winter here in Australia, and I have seen on the fashion boards a couple of times some beautiful embellished boots. After showing them to the girls (Emma & Grace – 11), we all decided it was a great idea for us to try.

We found a great pair of boots for only $4, which was perfect as I wanted to experiment with the technique before spending huge amounts of money. The boots fit Grace perfectly, and they are in great condition.

Embroidering boots can be done on any embroidery machine, the main tricks to think of when you are working with something such as a boot is to support the embroidery as you create it. I like to use the multi-needle machine for this, as it has a table attached, alternatively, on your domestic machine, ensure that your boot is able to move freely around the embroidery area.

Once I finished the boots, the girls and I went to Sydney for a get together with my family.  My 18 year old niece was so impressed with the boots, she was disappointed they didn’t fit her, and said she would happily wear them out.  High praise from a fashion snob. 🙂


  • 1 pair of zippered boots, made out of a soft leather/vinyl/suede. (You need to be able to open up the boots and lay them flat for the hoop, so ankle boots are not suitable.)
  • Sticky backed stabiliser (you will not be able to hoop these designs, and will need to simply place on top of the hoop)
  • Embroidery threads – I have used 2 shades of green and two shades of red
  • Marking pen – I like a chalk pen
  • Squissors
  • General embroidery requirements


  1. Take the boots and lay out on a flat surface
  2. Using a ruler and a marking pencil, mark down the centre of the boot 3 inches.
    Take the sticky backed stabiliser, and place a piece in the hoop, exposing the sticky side to the top of the hoop
  3. Lay the opened boot on top of the stabiliser, centring the cross hatch you created with the marking pencil.
  4. Move the hoop to the machine, and ensure that the boot is well supported, and able to freely move around during embroidery.  I am using a multi needle embroidery machine here – however you could just as easily complete this project with a standard embroidery machine.
  5. Slow the machine down to the lowest setting, to make stitching through the thick material easier.
  6. Embroider the design.
  7. Once the embroidery is complete, remove the hoop from the machine, remove the boot from the stabiliser, and gently take away any excess stabiliser.
  8. Repeat steps 1-8 with the second boot, ensuring that you flip the design so they are both facing the same way.
  9. Once the embroidery is complete, you may need to place an iron on piece of facing fabric to the embroidery to avoid the reverse of the embroidery abrading the skin.

I hope you love this project as much as the girls and I do.  I am off tomorrow to find another pair of boots that will fit Emma for the same technique.

machine embroidered boots

machine embroidered boots

Until next time, have a Stitchin’ Day.  Julie.

Fit for a Queenie – Free Design

My wonderful parents are coming today for a quick visit. They wanted to come straight after my surgery, however between their commitments, and mine, this is the first chance that we have had.  I am really looking forward to them coming, as my father still spoils us by cooking dinner for us whilst he is here, and mum is going to take me out for a coffee in the morning.

Mum did have one request however. She is attending a sewing camp in a few weeks, and on the last night of the camp, they have a “dress up night”, where all of the ladies are encouraged to create something to wear.  For instance a few years ago it was all about the tiaras, and each lady was encouraged to make their own tiara.  This year it is all about aprons, and so mum has come to me.

Amongst her friends, mum has the nickname of Queenie (for our family, I have narrowed this down to Her Majesty, or Madge), however a good friend of hers created a beautiful crafting bag with the word Queenie, and a crown on it, that mum really loves. The other thing that you need to know about my mother is that since dad stopped working so hard (he now only put in about 10 hours a day) (approximately 20 years ago), he has taken over the cooking and meal preparation.  So it is a big joke that mum would never need an apron, as she doesn’t cook.

For this project, I wanted to create mum a fun type of apron. I purchased an apron from K-mart for $5.00, however you could definitely make your own, and a necklace from Lovisa for another $5.00

I have created this Queenie design, and am offering it as a freebie download for anyone who wants to make their own queen a beautiful apron.



  • Apron – K-mart have these for $5.00
  • Pearl Necklance (I purchased mine from Lovisa for $5.00)
  • Queenie embroidery design – free from Julie Hall Designs
  • Embroidery Thread (I have used hot pink)
  • TearClean Tear Away Stabiliser
  • Sewing Thread to match the apron
  • Hot Fix Crystals



  1. Take the apron and iron flat
  2. Mark up the centre point on the front of the apron.
  3. Measure 4” down from the top of the apron, and using the markings of created, hoop together the stabiliser and apron, centring these points.
  4. Load the Queenie design onto your machine (as a hint, make sure the design will be stitch the right way around, you do not want this upside down), and stitch the design out in your chosen thread colour.
  5. Once the embroidery is complete, remove the hoop from the machine, and the apron from the hoop. Turn the embroidery over, and remove any excess stabiliser.
  6. Take the necklace, and undo the clasp.
  7. Lay the necklace out on top of the apron, and place it at the neckline. Once you are happy with the placement, gently use your free motion zig-zag to stitch the ends of the necklace to the apron (if this part concerns you, feel free to hand stitch this part)
  8. Take your hot fix crystals, and gently place different crystals around the design.

Your apron is now ready to wear, and perfect for the Royalty in your home.


Embroidery on Weird Fabrics

Weird Fabric Wednesday – how to embroidery on straw placemats or hats.

Did you know that you can embroider on difficult fabrics, such as a straw hat or placemats?

It’s really quite easy. The trick is all in preparing the surface for embroidery.

machine embroidery on placemat

machine embroidery on placemat

I purchased these beautiful placemats from the reject shop ($10 for a set of 4, with 4 matching coasters). I fell in love with the placemats for a summer/spring outlook, and had to try them on my new collection – WreathsWreaths are a collection of 12 different Wreath blocks, showing off the best of summer/spring foliage.  Change the look of the designs just by using different threads, for an Autumn/Winter look.

You need to consider a couple of different road blocks when you are looking at embroidering on difficult fabrics. If you take into consider the following factors, your embroidery will turn out perfectly every time.


The first thing to realise is that you are not going to be able to hoop in a traditional manner. Even if the hat/placemat was not too thick to fit into the hoop, the hoop marks would destroy the weave on the straw.  Because of this, we need to look at alternatives.  The best alternative in this particular case is to use a sticky backed wash away stabiliser (such as WetAway Sticky).  This stabiliser is hooped, and then the item is placed on top of the stabiliser to adhere for embroidery.  There are many different types of sticky stabilisers out there on the market, however I love the WetAway Sticky for this application as it doesn’t “gum up” the needle, and the first time the placemats are washed/rinsed, all evidence of stabiliser will be removed from the back.

Speed Kills

Embroidery on this particular type of fabric/medium will take longer than normal embroidery. Turn the speed on your machine down to the LOWEST setting.  The stitches need to form over an uneven surface, and that can take extra time.  Using the lowest setting will allow the machine the opportunity to form the nicest stitch.

Presser Foot Height

A heavy fabric is another place that you will need to alter the presser foot height option on your machine. I find that I need to bring the height up to 2.5mm to fully make room for this thick fabric.


Think about how your item will be used. In this instance, my placemats are going to be used daily, probably washed weekly, and placed out in the sun to dry.  The best thread to use in this circumstance is Polyester.  The other joy of Polyester thread is it’s strength, and I find the strength a really great positive when I am stitching through a difficult fabric.


Keep it sharp. You need a really sharp needle to work its way through the layers of straw on these placemats or hats.  One of the many reasons I love the Organ PD needles is because of how long lasting they are.  I try and use an Organ PD needle that is near the end of it’s life.  This way it is still a sharp needle, that is incredibly strong, however I don’t feel bad about throwing it away after I finish the project.

Try my gorgeous Shortbread as a Christmas Gift.

With Christmas only a couple of days away, if you are anything like me, you are searching for that last few gift ideas.


Each year I make shortbread for my husband to take to work as gifts. I embroider tea towels, and wrap the shortbread in the towels.  I am always worried that people will not appreciate a home made gift, however last week Edward came home and suggested that he needed another 5 to the 7 he had asked for, as a few people from his old team mentioned how much they are looking forward to the shortbread.

This year, I created another set of quick Christmas design collection – More Words on Christmas, which is a set of 10 new Christmas sayings – including a design encompassing the “selfie” phenomenon.  To celebrate this new collection, I wanted to share with you my favourite shortbread recipe.



  • 115g Rice Flour
  • 115g Castor Sugar
  • 225g Plain Flour
  • 225g Butter (at room temperature)
  • Extra Castor Sugar to decorate



  • 2 cake tins – I like round
  • Baking paper to line cake tins
  • Food processor with a blending blade
  • Aluminium Foil to wrap shortbread
  • Embroidered tea towel to wrap shortbread
  • Ribbon to tie up the shortbread


  1. Preheat the oven to 150 degrees Celsius
  2. Pour the Rice Flour, Castor Sugar and Plain Flour into the food processor bowl
  3. Chop the butter into 1cm squares, and add to the food processor
  4. Pulse the butter into the flour until everything is combine
  5. Take the baking paper and trim into a round shape, and line each of the cake tins
  6. Equally distribute the mixture into the two cake tins, and using the back of a spoon, smooth out in the tin
  7. Take a knife and cut the shortbread into 8 equal parts
  8. Sprinkle with approximately one teaspoon of the extra Castor Sugar
  9. Bake for 40 minutes
  10. Once your shortbread has baked, leave to cool in the tin
  11. Remove the shortbread from the tin, and wrap in aluminium foil
  12. Take the foil wrapped shortbread, and gently wrap so that the embroidered panel is showing.
  13. Take your ribbon and tie in a decorative bow around the shortbread to complete.

Embroidered Tea Towel



  1. Print out the template of the design you are going to embroider.
  2. Mark up the tea towel so that the design will be centred at the base of the tea towel, but still leaving approximately 1.5 inches at the bottom clear.
  3. Hoop your tea towel with TearClean Stabiliser at the back.
  4. Stitch out your design according to the colour chart.
  5. Once embroidery is completed, remove all of the excess stabiliser, and press.


Sunday Spa Slippers

How gorgeous are these?


I love putting a couple of little things together and turning them into a larger gift basket, and these spa slippers are fantastic for a spa kit. I include slippers, sleep mask, turban wrap and a 3 pack of nail polish, and I have a fantastic gift.

It is so easy to create your own patches/badges (whichever you wish to call them.

All you need is a really sturdy fabric, such as canvas that can be used to create the patch. I like to use a badge fabric (I have had a 30cm roll for the past 15 years and am still going strong). Which is a cotton, attached to a canvas backing.

The important thing to remember when embroidering on badge fabric (which you can purchase from most craft stores), is that you need a satin edge.

A satin edge gives you the ability to trim around the badge area as you apply the badge.

In this instance, I am going to use a high quality double sided adhesive to attach the badges I have made onto the spa slippers. Depending on the item you are embroidering, you can also attach the badge by hand, or by stitching on with a zig zag stitch.

These slippers are being made for my gorgeous Niece Hannah, who needs something for her boyfriends mother and sister for Christmas. I think they have turned out beautifully.  What do you think?



  1. Take your software and create a monogram design. Ensure that your monogram has a shaped satin border of at least 3 or 4mm.
  2. Load your designs onto your machine.
  3. Hoop together TearClean© stabiliser and badge fabric.


    This badge fabric is created using a canvas backing, and drill like fabric on top, adhered together for strength.

  4. Stitch out two of your designs onto the badge fabric (one for each shoe)
  5. Remove the badge fabric from the hoop, and remove as much excess stabiliser as you can (I sit there with a pair of tweezers taking away all of the excess stabiliser)
  6. Using a warm iron, iron a piece of Heavy Duty Bonding adhesive onto the back of the designs – at this stage I still have not cut out my designs.
  7. Once the adhesive backing has set and is cool, use the Cutwork Blade to cut around each of the designs.
    cutwork-blade-trim trimmed-badges
  8. Remove the paper backing from the Heavy Duty Bonding adhesive, and iron onto the top of the spa slippers with a warm iron.


Your spa slippers are now ready to use, and they have only taken 1hr to make (and I made 3 pair in this time).

Until next time, have a Stitchin’ Day. Julie.

How to Monogram the Perfect Handkerchief

As we discussed yesterday, monogramming is back in fashion.

Today I want to share with you my tips for creating perfectly monogrammed handkerchiefs.

We have just begun stocking a beautiful range of 100% cotton ladies and men’s handkerchiefs.  These handkerchiefs wash beautifully, and are perfect for monogramming.


The difficulty of working with 100% fine cotton products is that they tend to be quite fine. To deal with this, there are a couple of tricks that you will need to employ to get a perfect result.

  1. Starch

    Starching your handkerchiefs will assist in keeping the fabric still as you embroider it. For best results, spray a light layer of starch on the handkerchief, press, and repeat up to 3 or 4 times on each side. Don’t over-starch or you will fall into the trap of burning your fabric.

  2. Template

    Print out a template of your design so that you can play with placement. I like to place my monogram in the corner of the handkerchief.  Once I have decided where the placement should be, I like to press the cross markings into the handkerchief, which will assist with hooping.
    20161106_154013 20161106_154248

  3. Stabiliser & Hooping

    I like to use a sticky based wash away stabiliser. This means that I don’t have to hoop the handkerchief, and any excess stabiliser will come away with the first wash. To save a little money with the method, I hoop a piece of tear clean, and cut a hole out around the embroidery area. I then place a “patch” of wet away sticky over the hole where the embroidery will go.
    20161106_154652 20161106_154701

  4. Colour

    Choose your embroidery thread. For most of my ladies handkerchiefs, I am loving a pale pink and white multi-tonal thread. For men’s monograms I will generally go for a brighter colour, depending on the individual. (Personally I still love tone on tone)

  5. Stitch

    I am a fan of slower is better. I slow my machine down to approximately 700spm and stitch out my monogram.
    20161106_171530 20161106_171525

  6. Wash

    Remove any of the excess stabiliser, and then gently rinse the handkerchief in cool to warm water (or if you are doing a few, use a lingerie bag in the washing machine).

  7. Gift

    Iron and fold your handkerchief to display the monogram to its best advantage, and you are ready to gift.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, I would love to see your monograming projects as well.

Until next time, have a Stitchin’ Day.  Julie.


Rules for Monograming


Monograming is back in fashion.

As embroiders we are able to embrace this trend easily by monograming everything from bags to handkerchiefs.

Most of your embroidery machines will have a monogram feature, allowing you to quickly create wonderful monograms.

You can also take it a step further and use digitising software to create more modern and elegant monograms, giving you plenty of opportunity to find a monogram that will suit everyone.

There are a few simple rules of monogramming that you should follow.

Simple Monogram for a woman

A monogrammed gift for a woman should include her first, middle and last initial or if she is married, her first, maiden name, and married name initials. Traditionally, a woman’s monogram is presented in first, last, middle initial order. So for Leanne Ruth Hill her monogram could be as follows:


Tradition dictates that a woman’s maiden initials are always appropriate to use, even after she is married. However, it is more common to use a woman’s first, maiden, and married surname initials once she is wed. For instance, if Leanne married Brennan McLean, her new monogram would be


Simple Monograms for Men

For men’s gifts, it is very important to consider the shape of the item to be monogrammed when choosing the order of the initials. When monogramming an item for a man, many people prefer to use the initials in the first, middle and last order. This letter format is often found on personal items such as briefcases, luggage, shirt pockets and cuffs. For these kind of items, Cameron Graham Hall would be


It is also correct to put a gentleman’s surname initial in the middle. You might use that style on items such as cufflinks, key rings, and glassware. For Cameron that would be either of the below options



For a married couple

The monogram will contain the bride’s first initial, the surname of the couple, and the groom’s first initial, in that order. For instance Julie & Edward Hall would be


Be Careful

Some initials are not made for monograms. Always test out the letters and make sure they are not going to spell something you would not want monogrammed before you begin.


This year I am monogramming handkerchiefs for my family. I have just begun stocking a range of mens and women’s handkerchiefs at an amazing price, meaning you can give a personalised gift for the ones you love, without breaking the budget.

I hope you have enjoyed these tips, and i am always happy to help if you have any questions regarding monogramming.

Until next time, have a Stitchin’ Day.  Julie.